Letting go…

There appears to be no rhyme or reason to how long you have to wait to get a cab in Honduras. I have left the house at 7am, found a queue of forty people and been in my class at 8.15, I have also left at 7.10 to a queue of four and not made it until 8.45.

This appears to be transport in Honduras, and I suppose, Honduras generally. At first I hated it. It was just one more thing I couldn’t predict, measure, understand or relate to.

However, I noticed this morning that I haven’t worn my watch for three days. I seem to be relinquishing my rather English obsession with timeliness. I think I’ve realized that the trick is just to kick back and go with it. It feels nice.

‘Chasta’

To say that this week was easier than the last would be to misrepresent it slightly. A few days in I developed this strange and rather prolific skin rash all over me. At first I thought it was nerves. Then I though it was my new moisturizer; some Mexican produced Nivea.

So I learned a new word this week; ´chasta´

It´s Honduran for crap product.

Confirmation

This afternoon I sat a gruelling Spanish evaluation. It confirmed, in the clearest and most secondary school of fashions, that I am in fact crap at Spanish.  It´s a relief. At least I know I have been living up to my full potential this past week.

Note to self

  • Taxi Directo (the ones you and I are used to) go from your door to where you want to be. You can flag them down or call them but you have to negotiate the fair before you get in. They are expensive.
  • Taxi Collectivo. These operate in certain districts and cannot go beyond them. Lempira’s.
  • Buses 3 Lempira´s. They are generally crowded affairs. Rife with robbers, very loud music and a ´character´ of a driver. Knowing which one to get is half the fun as they have the route painted on the front, which means it says the same whichever direction you are going in. You have to rely on the bus boys that ride on the side and shout the destination. Considering I can barely understand it when someone spells it out for me this is possibly the trickier option for me. 

And so it begins…

I wake at five in the morning, I realize there is no working shower and I wash in the bucket of cold water that is handed to me. It would seem that my taxi driver is the only punctual man in Honduras so, with wet hair I stumble into a taxi with my things for the day. I get to the ICYE office at 6.40am, I am twenty minutes early. I discover that SOMEONE neglected to tell me that we were going away for the weekend. Today.

So, here I am with nothing but the clothes I am wearing, 100 Lempira, a camera and some hand sanitizer. I am also berating myself for being so stupid. How the hell did I imagine I could come to a country where I didn´t speak the language, entrust myself into the care of a family I can´t communicate with and still expect to know everything I am supposed to?  I am kicking myself here.

I bet my family told me. I bet I did that nod that people do when they don´t understand something but they don’t want to lose face. I wondered why my host mother looked so concerned when I left. She kept saying something to me and I just kept smiling and saying ¡Tenga un buen dia! It’s possible that I am an idiot.

One square arse later we arrive at PANACAM, a Honduran national park and home for three days. We have little time to take it all in as we rush headlong into a day of training. I am really starting to feel the jetlag, the effects of a 5am start and the hell of constantly being surrounded by at least three different languages. As I stumble up a ladder into my bunk that night I am alarmed to find that our patio has been designated the party area. Whenever anyone uses the toilet the dorm fills with light. I imagine it’s something like sleeping in a photocopier. My body finally gives up the fight with consciousness at 3am. I drift off to the sounds of drunks and bad quality pop played through even worse quality speakers.

I am strangely glad to get ‘home.’ Despite the trails of the weekend my evening is wonderful. I realize I have a lovely family who welcome me, even though they don´t understand me. I explain in terrible Spanglish about my ordeal and they are sympathetic. They are concerned that I have something to eat, that my clothes be washed, that I have a wash and get some rest.  Later we all have a good laugh about it. Dora and Eugenia have been swatting up on their English at the weekend and we spend the whole night laughing at ourselves as we try to communicate. For the first time in four days I don´t feel alone. Dora has got me some books from her school and Eugenia starts to give me some vocabulary lessons. I start to realise what it´s going to take to make this happen, and so I  vow not to read or speak any English for the rest of the week. I am going to have to sacrifice something if this is going to work. Once I finally surrender my expectations and accept the situation for what it is it all seems much easier. I feel happier and I wonder if I could really start to like it here. 

After only a week I feel a hundred years old.

I am still waiting to be successfully met from an airport

Don’t you wish life was a bit more like the movies sometimes? Call me sad but I have always wanted to roll out of customs to see someone waiting with a sign with my name on it.  It seems Tegucigalpa would not be the place. Furthermore, I quickly realize that good timekeeping will not be a defining characteristic of my time in Honduras.

I travel to the office in a pickup truck to wait for my family and for a moment I feel like the kid who has had to ride home with the teacher because their parents forgot to pick them up. By the time my host mother arrives I am sick with worry. This worry turns to panic when I finally meet her and realize she speaks absolutely no English. Its about now I comprehend the magnitude of my choices.

As we ride through the city in a taxi to my new home, I feel like a kid at a really weird funfair. Everything looks, tastes and smells so different. The language is a problem. I can´t make myself understood or understand what is being said to me at all. We spend the evening looking through photos with a dictionary and despite the language barrier I go to bed knowing the names of all my sisters, where they live and whether they are married. I think all they learned about me was that the next month would be hard work.

After half an hour of trying to work the shower, I realize that I lack the necessary vocabulary and energy to ask for help. I surrender and go to bed at 8pm. Which is where I leave you. Colder then expected, more than a little overwhelmed and wondering what tomorrow will bring. 

A parting thought

So, finally I find myself sat here the night before I fly to Honduras for a year. Despite. giving everyone four months notice, I don’t seem to have seen or spoken to everyone I wanted to before leaving. It still it doesn’t feel like I am going. The list is checked, the bag is packed. Four months of planning, list making, fundraising and goodbyes.

Precisely one week of putting my clothes in and out of freezer bags. Yes, freezer bags. Everything is individually wrapped, squashed, air-tight; safe from the humidity it’s about to be introduced to. Consequently, even my underwear looks like a frozen microwave meal. Everything I am taking for a year now fits into a 70l rucksack.

Despite all the planning, despite the fact that for the first time in my life I seem to have
followed a plan through seamlessly to the end without a hitch, I can’t help but feel I have missed something. Perhaps, perhaps not. Maybe these are the nerves everyone seems to think I should have?

Tonight I finished sticking photos into my album to take away with me. I was planning to take some Marmite, tea or HP sauce, if only to demonstrate that all the great British
things are brown. But I didn’t get round to buying any of it. So it seems that the families
of Honduras will not have the pleasure of Marmite. Nor I for that matter. At least I won’tbe resigned to eating it by the spoonful in moments of homesickness, as so to be sure that I am probably not missing a thing.

The weatherman is predicting 60mph gales for Lincolnshire tonight and for a moment I wonder if Hondurans talk about the weather quite so much as the English. I realize that I still can’t say ‘warm out isn’t it?’ in Spanish. No doubt they have not had the pleasure of the winter vomiting bug yet, a ‘pleasure’ I am pleased not to be exporting. Everyone here seems to be sickening for something. I wonder if Honduran men get ‘man-flu.’